Travel

Then and Now: Travel in Japan During Covid-19

Three years after the border closure followed by the COVID-19 outbreak, Japan finally opened its borders for visa-free travel for travelers from many countries, and you wonder, “what has changed?”. So, here is a list of changes and new guidelines to help you when visiting Japan.

Entry requirements
JR Pass
While riding a train

Entry Requirement

COVID-19 Vaccination or Negative Testing

Currently, the Japanese government requires travelers to receive and complete the three COVID-19 vaccinations or to provide negative testing.

COVID-19: Current Japanese Border Measures

Web Japan

You want to download Web Japan and complete the border immigration and customs declaration forms online prior to landing. Once all the forms are completed (it may take a day or two for a review, at which point, your screen color turns to BLUE from PINK), have them accessible and ready to show them to immigration personnel upon arrival. You will need two different QR codes, one for immigration and the other for custom declaration. Free wi-fi is available at the airport.

Visit Japan Web

Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass)

Here are a few changes to the previous JR Pass:

A new JR Pass looks like a regular ticket, with a QR code. No more three-folding booklet kind.
May purchase tickets and reserve seats at a regular ticket machine. It’s pretty easy except you must enter your passport numbers each time. You may also purchase and reserve tickets at any JR ticket office.
Use an automatic ticket gate instead of showing the JR Pass to JR personnel.

While Riding a Train

Oversized Luggage

When riding Tokaido, Sanyo, and Kyushu Shinkansen, you must reserve a seat with oversized baggage and pay an additional fee. The non-oversized luggage must be stored in an overhead compartment.

On a personal note-
Please note that they do enforce the new regulations. On my last trip, a conductor ticketed a couple for leaving oversized luggage near the entrance without a valid ticket, so please follow the guidelines.

Reservations for Seats with an Oversized Baggage Area

Mask wearing / refrain from talking / no turning seat

It might seem excessive, but travelers are asked to wear a mask while riding a train in Japan and refrain from talking loudly. Also, travelers are requested not to turn seats in the Shinkansen.

None of the above changes posed any challenges or difficulties while traveling. The trains’ announcements were much clearer and to the point, which you might find helpful. I wore my mask everywhere except on my morning strolls and sometimes outside when there were a few people around me. There were some hotels and other admissions where they checked my temperature, but I was okay with that.

Happy travel, once again!

Packing List for Your Trip to Japan

The Essentials for Travel to Japan

You recently booked your dream trip to Japan, and the excitement awaits! Your journey might be months away, but let’s begin with the right packing list so you are well prepared and can relax.

Below is a list of essentials, as a starting point, that you’ll want to bring along to help you prepare.

Travel Documents

Japan allows “visa-free” entry for up to 90 days to tourists of 67 countries, including the United States. Make sure your passport is valid, and be advised that immigration and customs will deny your entry if your passport expires during the duration of your stay.

It is always a good idea to make a photocopy of your passport and store it in your suitcase (not where you store your actual passport), in case you lose your passport. In Japan, you are required to carry a passport at all times by law.

Luggege Recommendation

Note: this packing list is based on 7-14 days, traveling across Japan on JR Pass (similar to Quintessential Japan), the most economical and sustainable way to travel in Japan.

One suitcase (with rollers) that you can comfortably lift.
One day bag large enough to hold 1-2 days of clothing and essentials.
One small purse (cross-chest)/fanny pack/belt bag that will store valuables such as your passport and wallet.
One collapsable bag for the trip home with all the marvelous findings.

Useful Tip

Starting in 2020, most shinkansen trains added fees for large luggage without reservation. Click here to learn more.

Luggage forwarding system

For a hassle and hand-free travel experience, try the luggage forwarding system during your trip. Simply drop off your luggage at the hotel, airport, and other venues, then receive your luggage at your next destination. It is a simple and reliable way to ship your luggage.

Clothing

Packing for clothing depends on the season, duration of your trip, and destination. Below is the clothing list recommended for Quintessential Japan in spring or fall.

3-4 comfortable short and long-sleeve shirts.
3-4 short or long pants or skirts
1 light jacket, fleece jacket, or cardigan to keep you warm during flights, chilly nights, and early mornings.
1 lightweight windbreaker or rain jacket, because it rains a lot there.
Bring a casual dress for women and a pressed shirt for men for fine evening meals and performance dinner.
5-6 pairs of socks and undergarments: many hotels offer cleaning services or have coin laundry services for your convenience.
Hats and scarves are a great addition to provide protection and give warmth.

In Japan, most people dress in dressy casual (one step above casual and one step below formal): many men wear khaki and pressed pants and not many jeans or shorts. For women, skirts and casual dresses are more common than pants.

Sleep ware

Although most hotels have nightgowns and yukata robes (cotton kimono) for you to sleep in, we suggest bringing something comfortable to slip in to help you with a good night’s sleep.

Footware

We recommend that you bring 2-3 pairs of comfortable shoes on your trip.

One walking shoes such as sneakers (for city walking and sightseeing)
One pair of casual street shoes or slip-on (for going out to dinners, performances, etc.). You will be asked to remove shoes upon entering some restaurants, traditional hotels, and temples.

Toiletries

Bring your basic toiletries such as toothbrushes and toothpaste, however, most hotels in Japan have basic toiletries at their disposal such as shampoo, body wash, hairdryer, etc. There will be many drugstores and convenience stores that sell basic toiletries so over-packing such is unnecessary.

Don’t forget to pack your medications and vitamins that you are used to taking.

For all other travel questions, visit Japan Travel Q & A.

Safeguard Your Health While Traveling in Japan

Travel insurance and other helpful tips

Let’s face it, getting sick or injured is never fun, especially while traveling in a country where the language and the system are unfamiliar. Although, Japan is one of the safest countries to visit, according to the Japan Tourism Agency, approximately 5% of all foreign travelers get ill or injured during travel. Furthermore, of those who get sick, 30% of them require medical attention. So, here are some valuable tips and information to be mindful of before traveling to Japan to safeguard your health, money, and peace of mind.

Quick Links

You Are in Good Hands: Quality Healthcare in Japan
Travel Medical Insurance: Purchase before arriving vs after
Recomeneded Travel App
How to find hospitals and clinics with English speaking staff
Useful Contact Information
Tips for solo female travelers
Consider joining a guided tour

Call 119 in case of medical emergency. Ambulance is free in Japan.

You are in Good Hands: Quality of Healthcare

If you wonder about the quality, cleanliness, and effectiveness of medical facilities of hospitals and clinics in Japan, you are in good hands. According to the World Health Organization, Japan ranks 10th place on the performance of its health care system in the world with a good ratio of doctors to population (3 per 1000 people, which is similar to Canada and the UK). Japan also has the longest life expectancy in the world, which suggests its high quality of healthcare system, according to the National Institute of Medicine. Japan has high standard care available through universal coverage for its citizens. Although travelers are entitled to the same quality care, unfortunately, the universal coverage does not apply to the travelers and are asked to pay the whole sum, which can be expensive. The best way travelers can benefit from cost-effective, high-quality care is to have travel medical insurance.

Consider getting travel medical insurance once arrived in Japan.

So, now that the good quality healthcare system puts you at ease, let’s talk about travel insurance and other helpful tools to get the care you need.

Travel Medical Insurance: Purchase before arriving vs after

Travel insurance protects while traveling, including lost luggage, missed flights, tour costs, and medical care when needed. There are many different options with different coverages which you can purchase before you leave on your trip. You may find travel insurance through independent insurance companies, an organization like AAA, or even through your credit card company.

However, travel insurance can be costly and may not be for everyone. Although travel insurance is highly recommended, for those, the option of purchasing medical insurance in Japan best fits their budgets. The basic medical insurance for travelers is approximate $8-10/per day depending on the type of activities and pre-existing medical conditions and can be bought once in Japan.

Please note that medical insurance does not cover other travel-related issues such as lost luggage, missed flights, and other more likely incidents during transit.

To purchase travel medical insurance in Japan, visit the Japan National Travel Organization site here.

Reccomened Travel App

Download The Japan Official Travel App from Japan National Travel Organization as it has valuable tips and information on finding routes, disaster alerts, medical needs, etc.

How to find hospitals and clinics

Despite all your effort in avoiding injuries and illness, sometimes unfortunate things happen, and you may need medical assistance. Below is a link to hospitals and clinics with foreign language services. Enter your location to find out the nearest medical facility that offers foreign language services.

https://www.jnto.go.jp/emergency/eng/mi_guide.html

Useful contact information

911 for Medical Emergencies/Fire (Ambulance services in Japan are free)
110 for police

Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) operates a visitor hotline 24 hours, 365 days a year. Call for tourist information or assistance in the case of accidents, illness, natural disaster, and emergencies.

Japan Visitor Hotline: 050-3816-2787
Service Hours: 24 hours a day, 365 days a year
Languages Available: English, Chinese, Korean, Japanese

Tips for solo female travelers

Click on the link below to learn how to stay safe and maximize travel if you are a solo female traveler in Japan.

solo traveler with camera — Tips for Female Travelers

Consider Joining a Guided Tour

Japanese farm house visit — Guided Tour of Japan

Even with travel insurance, navigating the Japanese medical system or asking for help can be challenging. Consider joining guided tours with Tanpopo Journey and travel with a Japanese-speaking guide so when you need assistance, they can assist you in making arrangements, so you save time, money, and peace of mind.

Vegetarian Travelers in Japan

How to navigate Japan if you are vegetarian

It is not an overstatement to call Japan a food nation. Japan takes pride in its cuisine, and as of 2020, it holds second place in the world for the most Michelin star restaurants (next to France). Concurrently, its traditional dietary culture, called washoku, is an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

However, despite its fame in culinary art, Japan seems to be a challenging place for the traveler who is vegetarian. But why? As a chef and a former Japanese restaurant owner in the United States, I also struggled to provide Japanese vegetarian dishes for our customers mainly because of misconceptions about some key Japanese ingredients, such as dashi, which is a foundation to Japanese food. However, with an understanding of the culture, ingredients, and proper communication, you can navigate the Japanese food scene even if you are vegetarian. So let’s break it down.

Nukazuke-Vegetarian blog — Nukazuke, pickled cucumber in rice bran.

History and fundamentals of Japanese food; what makes Japanese food unique?

Japanese cuisine has evolved over the course of history and has always been influenced by religion, climate, and politics, making Japanese food refined, popular, and recognized internationally today. The traditional Japanese cuisine is simple and frugal, and is based on rice, miso soup, and side dishes (ichiju-sansai), and is heavily influenced by the four seasons.

Although Japan initially allowed meat in their diet, when Buddhism was introduced to Japan from Korea in the 5th-century, meat became forbidden for consumption. This was due to the religious teaching against the killing of animals and the belief that humans will be reincarnated to animals in the next life. Instead, people focused on and enjoyed what the climate (four-season) and geographical features offered: fresh and abundance of seafood, seasonal vegetables, wild plants from the mountains, rice, soybeans, and root vegetables. The fermentation, pickling, and preservation process also played a crucial role in the Japanese diet, such as in miso, soy sauce, tofu making, dried fish, and alcoholic beverage productions. People discovered umami, an ultimate savoriness in many fermented foods and nori, shiitake, miso, katsuobushi (bonito flakes), and soy sauce, which made plant-based and straightforward Japanese food more flavorful and rich in its taste.

In 1872, when Japan opened for international trade, the Meiji emperor permitted eating meat which ultimately turned the Japanese cuisine from vegetarian and pescatarian into an omnivore. Today, Japan has two broad types of cooking: washoku (Japanese style cuisine which includes sushi, bento, teishoku, kaiseki, etc.) and yoshoku (western style cuisine which was introduced to Japan after the Meiji era and after WW 2, such as curry, spaghetti, hamburgers), and casual street food such as ramen, yakitori, takoyaki.

What is shojin-ryori, an ultimate Japanese vegetarian

Another essential style of traditional dietary culture is called shojin-ryori, and its cooking philosophy and dishes serve as a foundation to washoku in Japan.

Shojin-ryori (meaning devotion to cuisine) is a 1000-year-old Buddhist vegetarian cooking with deep roots in Japan. The philosophy behind shojin-ryori is to embrace no-waste (leaf-to-root cooking), cooking with simple tools, using local and frugal ingredients, cooking with seasonal ingredients, and most of all, not consisting of animals meat or fish.

Buddhism believe in the five elements (earth, water, fire, wind, and space), and the rule of five are more likely to be presented in Shojin-ryori: five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami) and five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white). Shojin-ryori can be enjoyed in many parts of Japan where Buddhist temples locate such as Zenkoji in Nagano and Koyasan in Wakayama. Staying at shukubo (temple lodging), participating in morning prayer is perhaps the best way to understand the teaching of mindfulness and its cuisine.

Where to find shojin-ryori?

If you are traveling to Japan for the first time and traveling on JR Pass, the Zenkoji temple in Nagano is a great place to start for shojin-ryori. Because the town is centered around the temple and its long history of Buddhism in the region, there are also many other vegetarian options.

Fuchino-bo：https://fuchinobo.or.jp/syojin.html

Bonito at Tsukiji Market — Different types of katsuobushi, a key ingredients in making dashi.

What is dashi?

Dashi is a traditional clear stock made with dried, smoked, and shaved skip-jack tuna (or another similar type of fish) along with kelp called konbu. The stock made with skipjack tuna is called Katsuo Dashi and if you are vegetarian, you may want to avoid this stock altogether. Dashi and bonito flakes serve as essential ingredients and are ubiquitous in the Japanese diet. Bonito flakes can be found in sauces, toppings for vegetable and tofu dishes, and most soup bases. Unfortunately, it is dashi that makes vegetarian travelers stumbled upon because often they are hidden ingredients to a dish. If your diet allows bonito flakes and dashi, your choice of food in Japan can be endless. However, if you are a strict vegetarian or vegan, it is best to ask if the dish consists of bonito. If the dish includes bonito, ask to see if they can make the dish without one.

How to ask if bonito is in the dish:

“Excuse me. I am a vegetarian. Is there dashi in this dish?”

“ すみません。わたしはベジタリアンです。このりょうりにだしがはいっていますか？”
(Sumimasen. Watashi wa bejitarian desu. Kono ryourini dashi ga haitteimasuka?)

roasted beets salad — Roasted beets with miso dressing and walnuts

Macrobiotic and Organic Farming Movement in Japan

After WW 2, Japan made a rapid economic recovery called koudo seichou (1955-1961). To fulfill the worker shortage throughout Japan, farmers were forced to use chemicals and fertilizers to help mass-produce food. With farm chemicals and fertilizers, farmers and livestock farmers were expected to yield a high volume of crops with maximized productivity without understanding the long-term negative impact on health and the environment. Around the 1970s, koudo seichou kept Japan up to the speed of industrialization, but some started moving back to traditional farming methods.

Today, throughout Japan, you will see more people practicing the macrobiotic way of life: a holistic approach that involves consumption of less meat and less processed food for a healthy mind and body, similar to that of shojin-ryori. As a result, there are more mu-nouyaku (chem-free farming) and organic approaches to farming and farm-to-table movement which brings consumers’ awareness for quality produce.

If you are vegetarian, vegan, or have other dietary restrictions, look for restaurants, cafes, and stores serving macrobiotic food is a great way to find healthy local vegetable dishes.

Search for restaurants serving organic, macrobiotic food in Japan: https://vegewel.com/en/restaurant/

Vegetarian-friendly Japanese dishes

So what should a vegetarian look for when choosing food in Japan?
Samples of traditional Japanese Vegetarian Dishes:

Goma-ae (spinach with sesame sauce)
Goma-tofu (sesame tofu-this is so good!)
Onigiri (rice balls with vegetable fillings)
Tsukemono (pickled vegetables)
Dengaku (tofu and vegetable skewers with miso paste)
Hiyayakko (chilled tofu, skip the bonito)
Gan-modoki (mock goose)
Yuba (tofu skin dishes)
Sushi (kappa maki, natto maki, inari sushi, ume-shiso maki, kanpyo maki)
Vegetable tempura (may want to skip the dipping sauce as it often consists of dashi).

Other noteworthy places to look into:

Nan and curry in Japan — Nan and vegetarian curry at Indian restaurant

Indian Curry Restaurants: Many curry joints and family-run curry restaurants in Japan offer vegetarian options.

strawberry mochi — Strawberry mochi at Depachika

Depachika: Depachika is short for “department basement” which offers a variety of food including Bentos, pastries, fried food, pickles, and fresh food.

pickle sampling at Nishiki Market — Pickle samples at Nishiki Market in Kyoto

Ichiba, Food Markets: Most cities in Japan have their own local market that is worth checking out. They are also a great place to get to know different ingredients.

WWOOF Japan: Green and Budget-Friendly Travel

From time to time, inquiries come from prospective travelers seeking a budget-friendly way to travel to Japan, meet locals, and gain a working experience without a long-term commitment. Although it might not be for everyone, joining WWOOF (World Wide Organization of Organic Farming) can be an excellent opportunity for many.

Daikon Radishes — Harvesting daikon radishes

What is WWOOF?

Found in 1971 in England by Sue Coppard, WWOOF was initially called “Working Weekends on Organic Farms” as a way to connect people who wanted the farming experience in rural England. Today, it is a well-established non-profit organization located worldwide, providing a platform for connecting organic farmers to travelers and non-travelers alike: farmers offer accommodation, meals, farming experience, and sharing daily life for those who wish to work on their farm fields.

How Does WWOOF in Japan Work?

There are hundreds of host farms situated across Japan’s 47 prefectures with various farming options: tea, rice, vegetable, animal, and fruit farmers to farms with lodges, inns, and cafes. The season is also crucial as most farmers seek help during the busy planting season in spring and harvest season in fall.

To join WWOOF programs in Japan, you must become its member, which costs approximately $50.00/year, and you must be at least 15 years old. Once becoming a member, you will be issued an annual pass that allows you to connect with local farmers and be presented to your host at the arrival time. Each person must obtain their membership; otherwise, program participation will be denied (WWOOF Japan is very strict about their rules and policies). Please check WWOOF’s website for more information.

Backpacker at Mt. Fuji — There are many WWOOF near Mt. Fuji

Does WWOOF Work as a Visa When Entering Japan?

No. You may enter Japan on temporary “visa-free” status (up to 90-days). Under the “visa-free” status, working is prohibited, and immigration is strict on those entering Japan with work permits/visas. WWOOF is not a work permit/visa, and one should not mention “work” to avoid denial of entry to Japan by the custom and immigration office.

WWOOFer Registration

Japanese women at farm — Consider working for small family-run farm

Why WWOOF?

The WWOOF program is a great way to support green tourism by engaging and helping local organic farming communities by volunteering your time for the cause. Time spent at the farm is decided between member and host, so you can choose which farm to work with and the duration of your stay.

Meeting locals and creating a friendship with like-minded people is another reason you might consider joining the WWOOF program: working, living, and eating meals together strengthen the understanding of the culture. And most of all, you will gain farming experience that can not be found just by traveling. More information available at: WWOOF Japan Volunteering

Free Range Chickens — Free-range chickens

Should I Join WWOOF While in Japan?

While WWOOF is a well-established program many travelers take advantage of when traveling through Japan, it is not for everyone. Here is a list of pros and cons when considering joining WWOOF in Japan.

PROS:

Travel on a budget (free accommodation and meals)
Meet locals
Get connected with nature
Gain farming experience
Get to know rural Japan and its culture

CONS:

Must commit to manual labor for 4-8 hours a day
In some cases, you might have to share spaces including eating, bathing, and sleeping with a host family and other WWOOF members
Not all hosts accommodate individual dietary and other needs

There are other ways to connect with people and farmers, consider joining Edible Japan!

Summer Vegetables — This could be your best farm to table experience

Tips on Making the Best of WWOOF

Have a personal goal and expectations

What is your personal goal by joining WWOOF? Is there any specific farming that you are interested in learning? Remember, “hosts” are real people doing real work. Think about what you can do to understand and assist them that is mutually beneficial to both parties.

Find the best match

Like how we are all different, WWOOF “hosts” are all different, too. Once you decide on a farm to stay in, do ample research to make sure they are the best fit for you. Here are some examples:

Are you a solo female traveler? Consider staying with a family with a female member.
Are you interested in a personal connection? Find a small, family-run farm: some larger farms rely heavily on WWOOF members for the work and might lack personal connection.
Are you a chef or want to become one? Find a farm that has cafes and a kitchen on their promise. Some farms cater to events, restaurants, and other food supplies, which might make your experience more unique.
Do you want to be connected with larger cities? There are many WWOOF farms located within a couple of hours from populated cities.

Choose the best time to visit

Generally speaking, farmers are busy during the planting season in the spring and harvest season in fall. Once the plan is in place and arrangements are made, try completing your time with the farmer with respect for their work: communicate in advance if your schedule changes, so they have time to arrange other workers to help them during the busy season.

Show that you care

Japan is a gift-giving nation. Upon arrival, it does not hurt to bring a small gift to your host farm to show the gesture of appreciation that helps you connect with them better. The gift does not have to be expensive, something small that can be enjoyed by everyone.