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Ai (indigo) Factory

A Sanctuary of Indigo and Inclusion: Visiting the Ai (indigo) Factory

Stepping into the quiet streets of Tokyo, I found myself at the doorstep of Ai Factory, a sanctuary for textile arts that has flourished since its founding in 1983 by Rikuko Takenouch. There is a profound sense of purpose here, a dedication to sustainability and originality that transcends the mere creation of fabric. It is a place where the independence of every individual is nurtured, weaving a tapestry of inclusion that feels both ancient and refreshingly modern.

On the first floor, the air was thick with the earthy, sweet scent of indigo. About a dozen staff members moved with focused grace around five large ceramic vats. The indigo itself, a precious gift from Hokkaido blended with kusumo, yielded a blue so deep it seemed to hold the secrets of the ocean. In the corners of the room, creative shibori techniques were in full bloom; I watched as glass marbles and old camera film containers were used to bind fabric, promising unique, ethereal patterns once the cloth finally met the dye.

Ascending to the second floor, the rhythmic sounds of textile work continued. This level is reserved for the intricate arts of SAORI weaving and sashiko stitching. Five staff members were deeply engaged in their craft—some tracing traditional patterns with surgical precision, others pulling needles through fabric in the rhythmic dance of sashiko. Though the looms stood silent that day, their presence served as a reminder of the vibrant textures born in this space.

What makes Ai Factory truly remarkable is its heart. Operating under Japan’s “Continuous Support for Employment (Type B)” system, the factory empowers people with various abilities to realize their dreams through art. Here, indigo dyeing and embroidery are more than skills; they are pathways to growth. Every product sold contributes directly to the workers, honoring their labor and their place in a more harmonious society.

The journey doesn’t end at the workshop. This inclusive mission threads through their retail shop in Shimokitazawa and the Ancienne Ai restaurant in Sangenchaya. From the workshop to the storefront to the cafe table, the spirit of Ai Factory weaves a beautiful, indelible connection between social welfare and the timeless beauty of Japanese textiles.

Tohoku Homespun & Mingei

Morioka & Michinoku Akanekai

Many may recognize the name Morioka, especially after the New York Times highlighted it as one of the top 52 places to visit in 2023. This charming Tohoku city in Iwate prefecture boasts stunning natural landscapes, a rich Nanbu history, and remarkable local craftsmanship, all conveniently accessible from Tokyo via the Tohoku Shinkansen.

During my recent visit, I had the pleasure of exploring Michinoku Akanekai, a delightful homespun, dye, and weaving company situated just south of Morioka city, near the Daikeiji Temple and the historic Nakaya streets.

History of Homespun and Connection to Mingei

Homespun, made of wool cloth spun or woven in the home, was introduced to northern Japan roughly a century ago during the Meiji era. Initially, it was introduced as a way to make coats for soldiers fighting in the colder climate. The region’s chilly climate proved ideal for this new textile, eventually fostering the development of wool cultivation, spinning, and weaving techniques to produce warm and comfortable fabrics for everyday use.

While many individuals have contributed to the popularization of Tohoku Homespun, Hironao Arikawa, the founder of Arikawa Studio, is a key figure in the popularization of Tohoku Homespun. Assisted by his mother and wife (who were both in textiles), he expanded his expertise in dyeing and weaving through an apprenticeship with Yoshitaka Yanagi, the nephew of Soetsu Yanagi (1889-1961). Subsequently recognized as mingei in Japan, Arikawa, dedicates considerable time to teaching the artistry and everyday practicality of Tohoku Homespun to younger generations. Mr. Arikawa also served as a Shinsa-inn, a judge at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum in Meguro, Tokyo.

In 1958, the Morioka Women’s Collaborative Work Space was established with the noble aim of supporting women who had tragically lost their husbands in World War II. Today, Michinoku Akanekai continues this legacy, employing skilled local artisans who expertly handle every stage of homespun production, from designing, dyeing wool with both natural and chemical dyes to spinning, weaving, and sales, while keeping it’s truth to mingei.

Upon my arrival, I was warmly greeted by Ms. Watanabe, the executive managing director, who graciously guided me through their enchanting workspace. The entrance features a quaint shop, leading to an open area where traditional homespun and sakiori looms stand side-by-side. Sakiori, another distinctive Tohoku textile technique, involves weaving old, recycled fabrics into vibrant and cozy textiles.

Michinoku Akanekai in Morioka welcomes visitors for shopping, tours, and workshops, offering a truly enriching experience. I highly recommend visiting their studio, and while you’re there, consider checking out the sake brewery right next door.

Also nearby, a short walk from the Gozaku Store (picture below, a Japanese bamboo basket store), you’ll find Azumaya, a homemade soba restaurant serving the famous wanko-soba and other delicious buckwheat noodle dishes.

To learn more about Sakiori and other textile of Tohoku, please join us in Japan!

Hishizashi and Sakiori, Textiles of Tohoku Japan

Passenger Ferry from Hokkaido to Hachinohe

In late July 2024, I embarked on the overnight Princess Silver, a passenger ferry departing from the island of Hokkaido and bound for Hachinohe, located in the southeastern region of Aomori Prefecture. The primary objective of my visit was to meet with a textile artisan certified in the traditional craft of Hishizashi, and a leading examiner of ethnicity (Minzoku) from Hachinohe City Museum. The purpose of our gathering was to engage in discussions and showcase a distinctive collection of Hishizashi (local sashiko) garments, some referred to as “boro”, typically not on public display, and Sakiori, rag-weaving, as part of my research expedition in preparation for our 2026 small group tours.

In addition to us at the Hachinohe City Museum, approximately eight Hishizashi artisans, an engineering professor from the Hachinohe Institute of Technology, a reporter from the local newspaper, The Daily Tohoku Shimbun were in attendance. All were passionate about Hishizashi and Sakiori (rag-weaving), local treasures developed by local women mostly during the Edo (1603-1868) and Meiji (1868-1912) era with the aspiration of transforming scarce material into durable, warm, and aesthetically pleasing materials.

Among the collections were noragi (workmen’s attire often referes as “boro”), shitattsuke (pants worn under Hishizashi kimono), women’s garments, mae-dare (apron for special occasions), sakiori kotatsu-gake (fabric to cover kotatsu-table during winter), to name a few.

with a reporter from The Daily Tohoku Newspaper

At Tanpopo Journeys, a fundamental aspect of our mission is to collaborate with artists and craftspeople to nurture and conserve traditional Japanese crafts and to share them with others around the world. My visit to Hachinohe exemplified this endeavor.
It was an absolute pleasure to encounter individuals from diverse sectors who recognize the intrinsic value of these crafts and are collectively willing to share them among a broader audience.

Then and Now: Travel in Japan During Covid-19

Three years after the border closure followed by the COVID-19 outbreak, Japan finally opened its borders for visa-free travel for travelers from many countries, and you wonder, “what has changed?”. So, here is a list of changes and new guidelines to help you when visiting Japan.

Entry requirements
JR Pass
While riding a train

Entry Requirement

COVID-19 Vaccination or Negative Testing

Currently, the Japanese government requires travelers to receive and complete the three COVID-19 vaccinations or to provide negative testing.

COVID-19: Current Japanese Border Measures

Web Japan

You want to download Web Japan and complete the border immigration and customs declaration forms online prior to landing. Once all the forms are completed (it may take a day or two for a review, at which point, your screen color turns to BLUE from PINK), have them accessible and ready to show them to immigration personnel upon arrival. You will need two different QR codes, one for immigration and the other for custom declaration. Free wi-fi is available at the airport.

Visit Japan Web

Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass)

Here are a few changes to the previous JR Pass:

A new JR Pass looks like a regular ticket, with a QR code. No more three-folding booklet kind.
May purchase tickets and reserve seats at a regular ticket machine. It’s pretty easy except you must enter your passport numbers each time. You may also purchase and reserve tickets at any JR ticket office.
Use an automatic ticket gate instead of showing the JR Pass to JR personnel.

While Riding a Train

Oversized Luggage

When riding Tokaido, Sanyo, and Kyushu Shinkansen, you must reserve a seat with oversized baggage and pay an additional fee. The non-oversized luggage must be stored in an overhead compartment.

On a personal note-
Please note that they do enforce the new regulations. On my last trip, a conductor ticketed a couple for leaving oversized luggage near the entrance without a valid ticket, so please follow the guidelines.

Reservations for Seats with an Oversized Baggage Area

Mask wearing / refrain from talking / no turning seat

It might seem excessive, but travelers are asked to wear a mask while riding a train in Japan and refrain from talking loudly. Also, travelers are requested not to turn seats in the Shinkansen.

None of the above changes posed any challenges or difficulties while traveling. The trains’ announcements were much clearer and to the point, which you might find helpful. I wore my mask everywhere except on my morning strolls and sometimes outside when there were a few people around me. There were some hotels and other admissions where they checked my temperature, but I was okay with that.

Happy travel, once again!

Packing List for Your Trip to Japan

The Essentials for Travel to Japan

You recently booked your dream trip to Japan, and the excitement awaits! Your journey might be months away, but let’s begin with the right packing list so you are well prepared and can relax.

Below is a list of essentials, as a starting point, that you’ll want to bring along to help you prepare.

Travel Documents

Japan allows “visa-free” entry for up to 90 days to tourists of 67 countries, including the United States. Make sure your passport is valid, and be advised that immigration and customs will deny your entry if your passport expires during the duration of your stay.

It is always a good idea to make a photocopy of your passport and store it in your suitcase (not where you store your actual passport), in case you lose your passport. In Japan, you are required to carry a passport at all times by law.

Luggage Recommendation

Note: this packing list is based on 7-14 days, traveling across Japan on JR Pass (similar to Quintessential Japan), the most economical and sustainable way to travel in Japan.

One suitcase (with rollers) that you can comfortably lift.
One day bag large enough to hold 1-2 days of clothing and essentials.
One small purse (cross-chest)/fanny pack/belt bag that will store valuables such as your passport and wallet.
One collapsable bag for the trip home with all the marvelous findings.

Useful Tip

Starting in 2020, most shinkansen trains added fees for large luggage without reservation. Click here to learn more.

Luggage forwarding system

For a hassle and hand-free travel experience, try the luggage forwarding system during your trip. Simply drop off your luggage at the hotel, airport, and other venues, then receive your luggage at your next destination. It is a simple and reliable way to ship your luggage.

Clothing

Packing for clothing depends on the season, duration of your trip, and destination. Below is the clothing list recommended for Quintessential Japan in spring or fall.

3-4 comfortable short and long-sleeve shirts.
3-4 short or long pants or skirts
1 light jacket, fleece jacket, or cardigan to keep you warm during flights, chilly nights, and early mornings.
1 lightweight windbreaker or rain jacket, because it rains a lot there.
Bring a casual dress for women and a pressed shirt for men for fine evening meals and performance dinner.
5-6 pairs of socks and undergarments: many hotels offer cleaning services or have coin laundry services for your convenience.
Hats and scarves are a great addition to provide protection and give warmth.

In Japan, most people dress in dressy casual (one step above casual and one step below formal): many men wear khaki and pressed pants and not many jeans or shorts. For women, skirts and casual dresses are more common than pants.

Sleep ware

Although most hotels have nightgowns and yukata robes (cotton kimono) for you to sleep in, we suggest bringing something comfortable to slip in to help you with a good night’s sleep.

Footware

We recommend that you bring 2-3 pairs of comfortable shoes on your trip.

One walking shoes such as sneakers (for city walking and sightseeing)
One pair of casual street shoes or slip-on (for going out to dinners, performances, etc.). You will be asked to remove shoes upon entering some restaurants, traditional hotels, and temples.

Toiletries

Bring your basic toiletries such as toothbrushes and toothpaste, however, most hotels in Japan have basic toiletries at their disposal such as shampoo, body wash, hairdryer, etc. There will be many drugstores and convenience stores that sell basic toiletries so over-packing such is unnecessary.

Don’t forget to pack your medications and vitamins that you are used to taking.

For all other travel questions, visit Japan Travel Q & A.